Cowboy Caviar and Tennessee Tails

For me, no trip up to Oak Ridge is complete without a detour on Melton Hill Lake Drive. The landscape is nothing short of serene, regardless of the weather. Sunlight casts a dreamy haze over the water, and occasionally, the rain summons a milky fog from the surface, creeping as if it were alive. With these images in mind, I motored along the lakeside a few weeks ago on my way to visit a friend. That morning was somewhat misty, and the scene was just as I remembered it. (It had been months since my last visit.) You can imagine my dismay when I noticed that someone had parked his spaceship on the peninsula.

Further investigation revealed this was the new enterprise of Dean Russell, former owner of the late Bleu Hound Grille.  The Bleu Hound made its name slinging, quite successfully, wood-grilled meats and elegant Southern fare. This new venture, The Flatwater Grill, is rooted in similar cuisine, simple but delicious, with friendlier prices and a boost in portion sizes.

The first thing I noticed about the restaurant was its cold, steely exterior. An expansive black asphalt parking lot sets off the white block and glass structure, with the name attached to what looks like a giant ring of bent aluminum. Don’t get me wrong – I like that sort of thing. But there, on the shore of the lake, on the greenway, in the shadow of an old railroad bridge, it just seems out of place.

It didn’t take long to realize that everything about this place was big. The parking lot is huge. High school teens were tooling around the lot in branded golf carts offering patrons a ride to the door. The building… giant. It is by far the largest structure in sight, and one wonders how the condo-dwellers behind the restaurant are dealing with their new view. The interior follows suit. The floors are painted concrete, metal chairs and tables are scattered upon it, with a few booths wall-flowered along the divider that separates the dining room from an open kitchen. The ceilings are vaulted, punctuating the sheer amount of space in the room and setting off the restaurant’s finest feature. The lakeside walls are almost entirely made of glass, a fitting showcase for one of the region’s local jewels. I imagined being there one afternoon during the rowing season, when diners would have the perfect seats from which to watch world-class teams race one of the South’s only flat 2000-meter courses.

We were seated immediately, and our server eventually managed to make it over to see us in the midst of tending to a seemingly more important table of boisterous, orange-clad suburbanites. We arrived late in the evening, and the daily catch was sold out (a bit disappointing, but it looked promising nonetheless). Shortly after garnering a couple of glasses of pinot noir and a cabernet, we dug in to our starter — a savory artichoke soufflé served with pita chips. It was perfect. The soufflé was light in texture but rich in flavor, with a strong smoked cheese appropriately showcased against crunchy, neutral pita chips. A refreshing escape from the standard spinach-artichoke dip, this is a must-try.

Three main courses were very nice. A large filet of fresh Grouper was perfectly deep-fried, accompanied by scalloped potatoes and wood-grilled broccoli (marinated and prepared exactly as described…. very recommended). My grilled pork loin was satisfying, if a little overcooked. The meat is served in thick slices atop a pile of forgettable cornbread stuffing. A side of wonderfully sweet tarragon carrot slices was the highlight. Trout Parmesan was well-executed — its breading tasty but not pervasive, allowing the delicate flavors of the fish to come through unhindered. The accompanying mashed potatoes were edible but unremarkable. There were a few missteps, but overall, we enjoyed three solid dishes. The menu boasted some tantalizing desserts: strawberry cobbler, crème brulee and the interestingly named banana burrito, to name a few. However, we were too full to give in to temptation.

A recent return trip found me at the Flatwater Grill’s Sunday brunch. I have to say I was wholly unimpressed. Alongside the regular Hot Lunches offered on the daily menu (which, by the way, have been jacked up to $10.95 from the delightful $7.50), were a flaccid offering of egg dishes. The requisite Eggs Benedict and Eggs Florentine were represented, and the remainder of the dishes were basically meat and scrambled eggs.  I tried the Fried Catfish and Eggs, a traditional Southern favorite, and it was acceptable. A side of “cobblestone” rosemary potatoes was very rosemary with no seasoning, and collard greens were tender but alarmingly regular. Even the scramble was lacking, as if the cook might have left the heat on too long and forgotten the seasoning. A basket of banana nut muffins and biscuits saved the meal. I sampled the Benton County Country Ham and Eggs as well. Although you can’t beat a slice of seared country ham, for $11.00 a plate, I expected a little more.

At this point, I’ve gotten used to seeing the Flatwater Grill’s shining silver frontage as I enjoy my drive along the lake. I still think it’s out of place but perhaps fitting with the area’s strong traditions of science and technology. After just more than a year of service, it appears Russell has hit his mark to serve wood-grilled Southern American fare in large portions at a fair price. Lunch is the best value at $6.95-$7.50 a plate. ‘Hot Dinners’ (served at suppertime) start at $12.95 for a heap of food, salad and warm bread. Go grab a bar seat this spring and catch a race or two.