Latin Flare

Occupying one of the hallway-like spaces in the heart of Market Square, the atmosphere at La Costa is strikingly similar to Gregg White’s fabulously successful flagship restaurant Nama.  Simple signage, a few patio tables and a marker board scrawled with specials invite the patron into one of the best-looking spaces on the Square. The walls and ceiling are awash in shades of brown and soft blue. The bar is immediately to the right — sleek in design and accented by a gorgeously full wine rack.  Booths on the left give way to simple wooden tables and chairs as the room extends.  Servers in black, black linens, and modern lines are a smart contrast, visually representative of White’s New South/Latino direction.

The menu is simple and concise, and the prices range from reasonable to… well… ambitious.  Small plates comprise the bulk of La Costa’s fare, including such tantalizing items as fish tacos, cornmeal fried calamari and grilled flank steak.  Entrees are few but eclectic.  White and Executive Chef Brandon Cruz have developed a menu consistent with their commitment to fresh, seasonal, natural/organic and local (when possible) ingredients. 

I made two trips to La Costa — each in the space of a week.  The first was date-night with my wife, during which I promised not to be a hardcore foodie.  That meant no poking and prodding of the food, no sticking my nose in said food and no talking endlessly about that very food (and maybe some other food). We started light with a quesadilla of arugula, eggplant, roasted red pepper and goat cheese — simple, fresh and well-executed.  My wife went for the only vegetarian entrée offered that evening — a red curry with tofu.  We hoped for the best because, at a hefty $15, it was the most expensive tofu curry we had ever encountered.  The preparation was traditional, with coconut milk, soft chickpea and peanut sauce.  The dish was wonderful, although I’m not sure what curried tofu has to do with either New South or Latino cuisine (perhaps that’s included in the ‘fusion’ descriptor).  My jerk-rubbed salmon was pleasing to both the eye and the palate.   The fish had great color and sat high atop a mound of savory roasted corn, mashed potatoes and sweet pea coulis.  My wife enjoyed one of the bar’s signature mango margaritas, and I chose a sweet Riesling from J Lohr — both were refreshing with our slightly spicy meals.

The following Tuesday found me back at La Costa, flying solo, ready to try some different items and gather any info I might have neglected during my first visit. First came a tempura eggplant napoleon.  As I sipped my beer I dreamed of thinly sliced eggplant, fried crispy, with goat cheese delicately sandwiched between.  What I got was three half-inch thick slabs of eggplant doused in Sauce Romesco, with all evidence of tempura lost in the heap.  Though the presentation was clumsy and the texture disappointing, the flavors were redeeming.  The Romesco, though pervasive, was savory and rich, and the goat cheese brightened a set of flavors otherwise a bit shallow.  For the main course, I chose the “surf and turf” special — braised short rib of beef atop a plantain blini, served with buffalo oysters and cucumber salsa.  The short rib was perfect — rich, tender, and laced with fat.  The blini, sadly, was charred.  Its slight sweetness was essential to the success of the dish, but too often delivered a burnt aftertaste.  The fried oysters were little bites of goodness, cornmeal battered and tossed (not drowned) in buffalo sauce.  Much to my dismay, the cucumber salsa fell flat.  It was warm, flavorless, and a sad shade of green.  Despite a few missteps, the dish’s flavors were on point.  I took a slice of house-made lavender cheesecake with cherry compote home to the spouse.  Yum.

Overall, the dining experience at La Costa is rewarding.  It’s exciting atmosphere, fresh menu and great location make it no surprise that Gregg White has found success with this concept.  In addition to your next dinner date, drop by for their bustling happy hour and try one of their signature drinks or quaff a glass of organic wine.