The Hour is Getting Late
June 17th, 2008 by jackrentfroFourth (FINAL) Dispatch from the field at Bonnaroo:
“I’ll sing thee songs of Araby,
And takes of fair Cashmere,
Wild tales to cheat thee of a sign,
Or charm thee to a tear.
And dreams of delight shall on thee break,
And rainbow visions rise,
And my soul shall strive to wake
Sweet wonder in thine eyes ……
We are all the little lost boy in James Joyce’s “Araby,” distracted by a fantasmagorical street fair with all its promise of worldly and otherworldly distractions from our dreary lives.
One can wander the gigantic campus of Bonnaroo for the duration and never see it all or even see the same things twice. Or see things you wish you hadn’t. But through the hassles and occasional misery, I declare here that no matter how hard and frustrating things go some days, one thing has been a constant for me in the three years I’ve been attending this massive music festival. And, doing so at an age, and with health conditions that might ought to suggest avoiding this kind of experience. And that thing is this: Every year on the farm lanes that take me back out to the main road home, I am already looking forward to next year’s Bonnaroo.
As if the surprise of running into new and old friends weren’t an hourly phenomenon at Bonnaroo already, two ghosts from my old career in mainstream newspapers turned up this year. While madly hunched over my laptop, trying to file yesterday’s report before the battery drained, a guy walks up and says “don’t I know you?” It turns out to be Chris Berkey, a photographer I knew from my days at the Knoxville Journal during its final years. I couldn’t possibly have seen him since 1992 and, anxious as I am about my predicament with the computer, we catch up a bit on the handful of old Journal pals. He’s off to shoot Aimee Mann. “Ask her if she still thinks about me,” I tell Chris.
Far weirder was encountering a lean bespectacled gentleman my age or so who comes up from a swirl of passersby along one of the gravel walkways between facilities. It’s Leon Alligood, someone I hadn’t seen since the late ‘80s. Leon and I were both at the Clinton Courier-News in that decade, he leaving for a brilliant career at the Tennessean where he has long been called “senior writer.” Deservedly, since a finer example of a human in journalist’s clothes I’ve never met. And, as might be imagined because this is the way things go at Bonnaroo, he is heading up a little encampment of staffers from the Tennessean set up cheek to jowl with Ian Blackburn and his merry Monkeyroo gang. At whose airy pavilion I would enjoy many a sip of fine liquors over the long weekend.
It was, atypically, a boozy Bonnaroo for me this year. I mean, really? Liquor? In this heat? All day long? Well, yes, at least in comparison to the amounts and varieties of less societally acceptable experience-enhancing ingredients that are known to flavor the atmosphere at a music festival. And, hell, you sweat it out quicker than you can drink it.
Sunday, getting to watch soul legend Solomon Burke with my brother in the cushy media viewing area of That Tent gave me a chance to emotionally rally from the potential disaster of losing the laptop’s cord. As with the Dap Kings the day before, this is my brother’s kind of music. Backed by a full, tuxedoed rhythm and blues revue, the dangerously obese Burke was wheeled out on stage by a cadre of women who then helped him into a velvet and bling-bedecked throne mounted at stage center. Burke, a contemporary of Otis Redding, Wilson Pickett and Joe South, showed the kids how it’s done, even if he could barely move his elephantine body. A backup singer occasionally reached over with a towel to swab sweat off Burke’s bulbous, bald head while he ran through a classic repertoire of hits like “Dock of the Bay” and worked in a few country standards like “I Want to Go Home (Detroit City)” and “Put Your Sweet Lips a Little Closer to the Phone,” all while a busload of young ladies pulled from the audience danced on stage.
After Burke’s set, as we drifted over to catch Death Cab for Cutie, there was the unexpected pleasure of stumbling onto the finale of the Lee Boys’ set at the little Sonic Stage. Unhampered by the brutal, full-on glare of the setting sun, the Lee Boys proved there is at least one other artist besides Robert Randolph reviving the pedal steel’s place in contemporary black music. As for Death Cab for Cutie, well, I’ll just be nice and say their music is very pretty.
Sunday’s big finale was Widespread Panic, which closed down at least one recent Bonnaroo but without me in attendance. I always kind of subscribed to Susan Lee’s dismissal of them as “Whitebread” Panic. But, I gotta admit, I loved it, endlessly indulgent instrumentals and percussion interludes notwithstanding. It didn’t hurt that one interminable guitar duel included Robert Randolph whose own set I’d missed. Those boys may be the best cover band ever, but all they had to do to get me to say that was do a righteous version of War’s classic “Slippin’ into Darkness” and Warren Zevon’s “Lawyers, Guns and Money.”
And then there was the bourbon laced with about half a bottle of some kind of energy drink that you’re only supposed to spritz under your tongue. Which kept me up and at it, unlike the previous night at Phil Lesh’s show when I reeled back to camp sideways. Kimberly—you don’t know how close you came to having to carry me home.
It was a great Bonnaroo, all the more so because I got to spend so much time with my brother, Jeff. Like I said in my first dispatch, it is a transitional time in my life and rediscovering old lost genetic circuits can help a boy get back home through all the flashing lights and crazy people along the way.
That Bonnaroo not only exists at all but succeeds year after year on a scale unheard of by any festival in history refutes a notion that persists lately. That we’re in some sort of inexorable downward spiral that seems predestined. I expected this near-panicky national mood to be reflected in this year’s Bonnaroo. But the event was as teeming as ever in spite of gas prices that make driving your own car somewhere about as costly as taking a cab.
I think it is because this kind of peaceful, communal event is a rallying sign for people. I think this temporary city that springs up in a field outside of Manchester, Tennessee every year is a hopeful expression that we will make it through these years of horrifically awful leadership at the national and local level. It’s true, though, that we may all have to learn how to live all over again. If a broken down old horse like me can live in a car without air conditioning in June for five days and if we could just remember that our ancestors dealt with far worse conditions than$4 a gallon gasoline, we will be all right.
Hey, wait! ENCORES!—
FOOTNOTE ON PEARL JAM: watching with fascination as Eddie Vedder repeats endlessly the “two riders were approaching” line to Bob Dylan’s “All Along the Watchtower.” It is either a brilliant improvisation or an ingenious cover for forgetting the final line: “and the wind began to howl.” Regardless, the hour was indeed “getting late,” not only for Pearl Jam’s long set (trying to tweak Mr. West’s pompous nose out of joint a bit?) but for the revival of the nation. For the rest of the weekend, my brother can’t quit doing the Eddie Vedder all-consonantal yowl: “Nnnrrrgghhhh…..”
FOOTNOTE ON LEVON HELM: my frail hero of The Band played seated the whole time but his mandolin was strong and his hickory smoked voice as tough as ever. Gaunt but clearly thrilled to be at Bonnaroo, Helm seemed braced by the familial love of his daughter, Amy Helm, singer Teresa Williams, and multi-instrumentalist Larry Campbell. After having just seen Iron and Wine with Sam Beam’s band including sister Sarah, those hours that Saturday afternoon had a sweet familial glow.